What are they?

Polyhydroxy acids (PHAs), such as gluconolactone and lactobionic acid, are among the newest alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) to hit the skincare market. Made up of larger molecules than traditional AHAs, PHAs are typically gentler on the skin, causing less peeling, flaking and dryness. Unlike some AHAs, which can dry out the skin, PHAs are ideal for sensitive or dry skin types.

You’ll find them in

PHAs are frequently used in anti-aging and correcting skin treatments, like face lotions, creams, serums and eye products. Additionally, they’re found in acne treatments and products for the body, hands, feet and even hair.

Skin benefits

Consistent use of PHA products can improve skin in many ways. PHAs:

• Promote cell turnover. By sloughing off dead skin cells, PHAs reveal smooth, healthy new cells underneath.

• Attract water to skin. PHAs are humectants. By drawing in moisture, they help skin stay hydrated. When skin is sufficiently moisturized, it looks smoother and healthier.

• Reduce wrinkles. In one study, after PHAs were used twice a day for six weeks, results revealed “a decrease in the number, depth and spacing of fine lines, wrinkles and crow’s feet,” Elizabeth Briden, M.D., a dermatologist at the University of Minnesota, tells Skin & Allergy News. PHAs are also effective in combination with retinoids.

• Strengthen skin’s barrier. Our skin barrier, or stratum corneum, plays a vital role in keeping out irritating chemicals and substances. Because PHAs help improve barrier function, they can make skin less vulnerable to irritants.

• Fight free radicals. Gluconolactone is an antioxidant known for its free radical-fighting ability, protecting skin from harmful UV exposure.

• Lighten hyperpigmentation. Especially when used with hydroquinone, PHAs can lighten hyperpigmentation and photodamage.

• Reduce flare-ups in inflammatory conditions. Dr. Briden notes that using complex PHA products can lower inflammatory episodes of acne, rosacea, dermatitis, psoriasis and melasma.

Product picks

If you’d like to incorporate PHAs in your skincare routine, you have many options:

• Cleanser. NeoStrata Facial Cleanser - PHA 4 contains 4 percent gluconolactone. This cleanser is suitable for all skin types, and removes impurities without over-drying.

• Moisturizer. To moisturize, soothe and combat fine lines and wrinkles, apply NeoStrata Bionic Lotion, with 12 percent gluconolactone and 3 percent lactobionic acid.

• Sunscreen. Defend your newly-refined skin with NeoStrata Daytime Protection Cream - SPF 15. This formula, which features 8 percent gluconolactone and 2 percent lactobionic acid, offers broad-spectrum sun protection.

• Eye treatment. Pamper those peepers with NeoStrata Bionic Eye Cream, which contains antioxidants, green tea and cucumber extracts to combat dark circles and puffiness.

• Lightening gel. Smooth on NeoStrata HQ Skin Lightening Gel with PHAs and hydroquinone. It exfoliates dead skin and lightens pigmentation spots from sun damage or melasma.

• Concealer. To cover up skin tone imperfections and lines, apply CoverBlend Multi Function Concealer – SPF 15.

Who should avoid PHAs?

PHAs are generally considered safe for all skin types. However, check with your doctor before using PHA products if you:

• Have a known allergy or sensitivity to PHAs or AHAs.

• Use prescription acne treatments, (especially topical retinoids or Accutane).

• Are pregnant.

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