What is it?
Hydroquinone is a chemical lightener used in many topical skin products to lighten discoloration, age spots, freckles and melasma. This ingredient works by suppressing the formation of melanin, the pigment that causes skin to darken. Specifically, hydroquinone inhibits the enzyme required to produce melanin, which is called tyrosinase.
You'll find it in
Hydroquinone is available over the counter in 2 percent topical solutions (such as creams and gels), or via prescription in a 4 percent solution.
Product picks
Hundreds of treatment products contain hydroquinone. Here are several effective options:
What to expect
Below, you'll find details on seeing results, using hydroquinone and watching for side effects.
- Results. Typically, you’ll see results in about four weeks. However, you may need more time to see an improvement in your skin based on the extent of your discoloration. Dermatologists commonly prescribe hydroquinone products for three months; you'll likely reach a results plateau after “six months or so...and will also need to stop,” according to Jacob Levitt, M.D., dermatology professor at Mount Sinai Medical Center, in Cosmetic Surgery Times.
- Patch testing. Test the product on a small patch of skin before applying to large areas. If you don't notice any adverse reactions within 24 hours, continue treatment.
- Usage tips. To use your hydroquinone product safely and effectively:
- Apply it with a cotton swab to avoid getting the product on surrounding skin.
- Allow it to dry completely before applying moisturizer or foundation.
- Massage the product into larger areas (like arms or legs), and then wash hands immediately to prevent hydroquinone from lightening your palms.
- Don’t get the product on the lips, nose or mouth, as numbness may occur.
- Use the product only as directed — never more frequently or in larger amounts than recommended. For most people, hydroquinone can be applied twice daily.
- Side effects. Mild side effects, including minor itching, stinging or slight redness are usually temporary. More serious side effects include “burning, itching, crusting, swelling… and unusual skin discoloration,” according to the New Zealand Dermatological Society. Stop using hydroquinone immediately and see a doctor if you have any of these reactions.
- Sun and weather protection. When using hydroquinone, your skin will be especially sensitive to the sun. Here's how to protect your skin:
- Wear sunscreen daily. Opt for SPF 30 to defend against damaging UV rays.
- Wear long sleeves, pants, wide-brimmed hats and sunglasses for extra protection.
- Avoid excess sun exposure and indoor and outdoor tanning.
- Treat skin in extreme weather. In addition to sun sensitivity, skin might also become more sensitive to certain weather conditions, such as cold. If this occurs, apply a soothing moisturizer to irritated areas after the skin has completely absorbed the hydroquinone. Check out ATOPALM MLE Face Cream to hydrate, soothe and protect your skin.
Who should avoid it
Because hydroquinone can be harsh and drying, don't use it if you:
- Have sunburned, dry, irritated skin or an open wound.
- Use harsh soaps, shampoos, cleansers, hair coloring or depilatories.
- Apply other medicated topical treatments, particularly those that contain benzoyl peroxide or hydrogen peroxide. Check with your doctor for possible interactions that can occur with other medicated skincare products.
- Are pregnant or breast-feeding. It’s unknown if hydroquinone causes fetal harm in pregnant women or if it's excreted in breast milk.
- Have liver disease or kidney disease. Consult your doctor before using hydroquinone, because the concentration may need to be adjusted.
Safety issues
Topical hydroquinone treatments are generally considered safe. Dermatologist Susan Taylor, M.D., director of the Skin of Color Center at New York City’s St. Luke’s-Roosevelt Hospital, tells Allure, “Hydroquinone is one of the safest over-the-counter products available, and the most effective ingredient for pigmentary disorders.”
Still, there's been debate over its safety. Some rat studies have shown that hydroquinone is carcinogenic. However, genetics — not hydroquinone — may have played a key role in causing these tumors because the rats were already at a high risk for cancer, notes Dr. Levitt. Also, the rats had very high doses of hydroquinone internally, whereas humans use much lower doses externally. High doses of hydroquinone used long-term can cause a tissue condition called ochronosis — especially in people with dark complexions — turning skin black or blue.
Because of these concerns, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) is considering a possible ban on over-the-counter products. The ingredient has already been banned in Japan, Australia and the European Union. However, many dermatologists believe that such a ban is unnecessary based on hydroquinone’s safety record and years of research.
See also:
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Sunscreen and Children: What Every Parent Must Know
Triclosan: Is it Harmful?
Indoor Tanning: Safety Facts
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