Blackhead basics

A blackhead is an open comedone, or clogged pore. It looks like a flat, dark spot or a speck of pepper. Blackheads are mostly found in the T-zone — the area across your forehead, down your nose and chin.

Your body produces the most sebum in this T-zone. But blackheads don’t discriminate; they crop up on dry skin, too. If blackheads mix with other bacteria or become inflamed, they can lead to a full-blown breakout, according to iVillage.

How blackheads form

• Sebum. Under normal conditions, the skin produces just enough sebum to stay protected and moist. However, with more oil production, there’s a greater chance that excess sebum will become trapped in the pore. This causes a blockage. Combined with dead skin cells and dirt, sebum in the pore oxidizes — or darkens — forming a blackhead at the pore opening. Oxidized oil — not dirt — is what makes a blackhead black.

• Other causes. Why this surge of excess oil? Blame it on a variety of possibilities:

  • Overabundance of androgens (male hormones)
  • Excessively hot, humid weather

  • Heavy emollient makeup, which can leave an oily film on the face.

Battling blackheads

Unfortunately, it’s impossible to permanently eliminate blackheads. Why? Oil production plays a large role in forming blackheads, and skin is constantly producing sebum. However, using specialized skincare products can help to banish blackheads.

• Start clean. Use a daily cleanser for oily skin, such as Murad Clarifying Cleanser. Enriched with beta hydroxy acid, these cleansers normalize oil production in the skin, keeping it smooth and blackhead-free.

• Exfoliate. For dry skin, use a scrub once a week; oily skin should exfoliate two to three times weekly. Check out MD Formulations Face & Body Scrub. Exfoliating will encourage cell turnover and lift off dirt, grime and dead skin cells. This gives pores a fighting chance against excess oil.

• Banish bad habits. Don’t pick, squeeze or scratch at blackheads. This can cause irritation, infection and scarring.

• Try pore strips. Using pore strips on the skin can help lift off superficial blackheads. To start, apply a pore strip to wet skin, so it adheres to the skin’s surface. Then, once the strip has dried, pull it off. The strip should take a bounty of blackheads with it. The drawbacks? Though they’re an effective temporary solution, pore strips don’t prevent blackheads. Plus, pulling off the strip can cause pain and irritation.

  Importantly, avoid making your own strips using tape or glue. The adhesive can actually remove chunks of skin, causing redness, irritation and burning, warns Heidi A. Waldorf, M.D., dermatology professor at Mount Sinai School of Medicine, in Allure.

• Apply retinoids. Prescription retinoids — like Retin-A — are effective in fighting bothersome blackheads. Topical retinoids speed up cell turnover to prevent clogged pores. And retinoids “have the unique benefit of slowing down oil production, so new blackheads are less likely to form,” notes iVillage. But don’t expect a quick-fix. Like many acne treatments, retinoids can take weeks to months to work, and dry, flaky skin is a common side effect.

• Consider glycolic peels. Peels combat blackheads by quickly sloughing off dead skin, removing dirt and bacteria from the pores. How well the peel works varies by individual — some people see results after two peels; others need five to six treatments.

  Also, using peels too frequently without any down time can weaken skin’s protective barrier and lead to irritation, dermatologist Doris J. Day, M.D., tells Allure.

  In addition to professional glycolic peels, at-home treatments are also available. MD Skincare Alpha Beta Daily Face Peel/2 Steps Packettes feature alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) like glycolic and lactic acid to keep pores clear.

  Peels aren’t appropriate for everyone. For instance, people using retinoids shouldn’t get glycolic peels, because retinoids can cause the skin to become sensitive and easily irritated.

• Use a BHA spot treatment. For very oily, acne-prone skin, consider applying the beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) salicylic acid. Try NeoStrata NeoCeuticals Acne Spot Treatment Gel, which encourages cell turnover and regulates oil production when applied on blackhead-affected areas.

  Because salicylic acid is an exfoliating agent, over-use can cause dry, flaky skin. However, salicylic acid also works best when used regularly, so don’t give up! Instead, alternate how often you use different products with this ingredient. If you’re also washing your face with a BHA cleanser twice a day, reduce it to once daily.

  Don’t use salicylic acid products if you’re allergic to aspirin, pregnant or breast-feeding, warns WebMD.

• See a professional for extractions. Normally performed during a facial, extractions remove a blackhead from the pore with an extractor — a small, pronged tool with loops on either end. Make sure to leave this up to a trained professional. Using the tool improperly can lead to skin damage and even scarring. Also, consult a dermatologist about prescription treatments.

Learn everything you need to know about acne-fighting skincare in our Complete Acne Handbook.