What are essential oils?

Essential oils are water-like substances, extracted from plants, herbs, wood barks, flowers and fruits. Unlike traditional "oils," these substances aren’t oily or sticky and closely resemble water droplets.

How are they extracted?

Two of the main methods for extracting essential oils are steam distillation and expression. Steam distillation forces steam into a large container filled with the plant material. The steam is used to break open or rupture the plants, releasing the oil, which is then cooled and collected for bottling. During the process of expression, the flower or fruit is squeezed or pressed in order to “express” the oil from the plant.

Depending on the plant, it can take anywhere from hundreds, to hundreds of thousands of pounds of plants to produce just one pound of essential oil, making some oils more expensive than others. Essential oils are also highly concentrated, and for many home remedies, only a drop or two is needed for an effective treatment.

How do they work?

There are several ways essential oils can improve your skin.

• Anti-everything. Many essential oils are naturally antibacterial, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory and antiseptic, all properties that are helpful in treating acne.
• Circulation. Essential oils can improve circulation, which increases the flow of oxygen and nutrients to the skin.

• Sebum. Some essential oils can also help reduce sebum production — key to improving and controlling acne.

Where to begin

There are several essential oils that specifically address acne concerns. Here are some special properties you’ll find in a few of the most popular essential oils:

• Regulation and balance of oily skin: geranium, lavender, rosemary and cedarwood
• Antibacterial cleansing: lemon and bergamot (also has a drying effect, so it’s an ideal spot treatment, according to About)
• Antiseptic and healing properties: tea tree oil, calendula and peppermint

Plus, acneic or oily skin will benefit from lightweight oils, including almond, jojoba, borage seed or evening primrose.

When selecting your essential oils, also consider your skin type, what type of acne you’re trying to treat and whether these oils need to be diluted, according to About. The About article also notes that “the more sensitive your skin, the more diluted your oils should be.” Keep in mind that you’ll need to dilute almost all essential oils.

3 recipes for skin care success

• Facial cleanser. In her book, Aromatherapy-Soothing Remedies to Restore, Rejuvenate and Heal, Valerie Gennari Cooksley offers the following recipe to balance oily skin:
  • 2 tsp. hazelnut oil
  • 1 tsp. jojoba oil
  • ¼ tsp. carrot seed oil
  • 6 drops rosemary
  • 2 drops geranium
  • 2 drops basil
  • 2 drops cypress
• Steam treatment. Cooksley also suggests giving your face a steam treatment two to three times a week to open and clear the pores while improving circulation. For this steam treatment you’ll need:
  • 4-6 cups just boiled water
  • 1 drop bergamot
  • 2 drops lemon

  To create the concoction:

  • First, combine the ingredients and bring water to a boil.
  • Then, allow the concoction to cool for five minutes, and pour the water into a heat-proof glass bowl. (Be cautious when using hot liquids near the face — never expose skin to boiling water without cooling it first.)
  • Place the bowl in a secure location. With a towel draped over your head to hold in the steam, lean over the bowl for 15 to 20 minutes.
  • Stay at least eight inches from the water to prevent a steam burn and to enjoy maximum benefit.
• Spot treatment. In The Complete Book of Essential Oils & Aromatherapy, Valerie Ann Worwood suggests the following mix to combat unsightly blemishes. Simply dab a drop of this mixture on the offending spot twice a day for three days:
  • 1 drop camphor
  • 1 drop lemon
  • 1 drop lavender
  • Blend in 6 drops evening primrose oil

Quality control

• Use pure oils.For skin care uses, it’s important to use pure essential oils, and avoid those labeled "perfume oil" or "fragrance oil." These may be synthetic versions of essential oils and aren’t safe for use on the skin.
• Go organic. Purchase organic essential oils to be sure that they’re free from pesticides or chemical residue. Base oils should also be cold-pressed and organic to ensure that the beneficial vitamins and minerals weren’t stripped away with solvents or preservatives.
• Store properly. To extend the life of your essential oils, store them in dark glass bottles, and keep them in a cool place, away from direct light — especially sunlight.

Side effects

When used properly and in small doses, side effects are rare but can include: rash, itching, burning, stinging and irritation.

To avoid these side effects, always conduct a patch test before using any essential oil for the first time. To do this, place one drop of oil on the inside of your elbow, cover with a bandage and leave for 24 hours. If you experience any irritation or adverse effects, discontinue use immediately.

Additional considerations

• Sunburn concern. Citrus essential oils, such as lemon, lime, orange or grapefruit, may increase the risk for sunburn or cause sensitivity to sunlight. Avoid using these when you’re planning a trip to the beach or pool.
• Expecting moms. Pregnant women should consult a doctor before using any oils, especially during the first trimester. Essential oils aren’t recommended for any women with a history of miscarriage or who are nursing.
• Child advisory. Essential oils should never be used on children under the age of one and should be carefully diluted when used on older children.
• Medical matters. Those with medical conditions such as epilepsy or diabetes should consult a doctor before using any essential oils to avoid possible complications.

Product picks

Not ready to make your own concoctions just yet? Consider these products, which already include essential oils.

• Yonka Masque 105 contains lavender — an essential oil that effectively controls oily skin.

• Jurlique Blemish Cream features tea tree oil and calendula to treat blemishes and soothe the skin.
• SAMPAR Prodigal Pen Blemish Corrector combines eight essential oils, including lavender and sage, to treat blemishes.

Learn everything you need to know about acne-fighting and natural skincare in our Complete Acne Handbook and Natural Beauty Handbook.