Acne is trying enough, but it’s even worse if you have dry or sensitive skin. Most topical treatments are designed to dry up excess oil production, which can leave dry complexions with flakey, irritated skin. Worse yet, when skin is irritated, it can contribute to further breakouts. The key is to develop a gentle skincare routine that’ll effectively address your acne without over-drying. Here’s how.
Skin type 101
Dry skin. While some women have always had dry skin, others find that their skin becomes increasingly drier with age, making it necessary to change their routines. Aging boosts dryness, because as we get older, the production of sebum — the skin’s natural moisturizer — begins to slow down. And for women nearing menopause, the body starts producing less estrogen, which increases this dryness even further.
And regardless of age, our skin tends to be much drier during cold weather because of harsh winds, loss of moisture in the air and heating systems.
Sensitive skin. If you have sensitive skin, you know that almost anything can aggravate it, and it’s typically difficult to pinpoint the exact cause. And like dryness, skin sensitivity can increase with age.
Strong fragrances, itchy fabrics or even too-hot showers can all cause your skin to become red, itchy and irritated. Allergens like pollen, weeds or animal dander are also potential culprits.
Skincare products that contain dyes, artificial coloring, synthetic preservatives or harsh active ingredients can lead to dryness and irritation, which makes finding a suitable acne treatment extremely difficult.
Basic routine for clear skin
The first step in having clear skin is to adopt a basic skincare system that’s ideal for your skin type. At the very least, your skincare regimen should contain a gentle and effective cleanser and a soothing moisturizer.
Cleanser. Although it may be tempting to pick up an acne cleanser to banish those blemishes, most acne cleansers are simply too harsh for dry or sensitive skin. Instead, choose a gentle cleanser that removes makeup and impurities, while balancing and calming the skin.
Never wash more than twice daily — over-washing the skin will disrupt its moisture balance and can even lead to more breakouts. Remember that acneic skin isn’t dirty skin, so additional washing isn’t the answer.
Product picks:
Moisturizer. All skin types need a moisturizer, but it’s important to pick a moisturizer that will adequately hydrate your dry/sensitive skin without leading to more blemishes. Thick creams can be too rich, potentially clogging pores, while lotions designed for acneic skin are likely too irritating. Strike a balance by choosing a lightweight, oil-free lotion that offers soothing hydration.
Product picks:
Treatments that work
Picking the right acne product is critical for dry or sensitive skin. Here are some facts and tips to get you started.
Benzoyl peroxide. Read the ingredients in acne-fighting cleansers, toners and spot treatments and you’ll notice that many contain benzoyl peroxide — a highly effective ingredient for treating acne.
Unfortunately, with its effectiveness, you also get irritation and dryness. In fact, according to Smart SkinCare, “long-term use of benzoyl peroxide, especially at high concentrations, is likely to age your skin prematurely.”
To treat your delicate skin, skip benzoyl peroxide in cleansers and toners, and use a spot treatment that contains 2.5 percent or less. Use only on active blemishes and avoid surrounding areas.
Salicylic acid. If your skin is extremely sensitive, avoid benzoyl peroxide entirely. A better option is salicylic acid, which is less aggressive on the skin and encourages cellular turnover. It also has anti-inflammatory properties, helping to calm aggravated skin. Use a spot treatment with this ingredient once a day to gently combat blemishes.
Retinoids and retinol. Also useful for treating dry or sensitive acneic skin are retinoids, or derivatives of vitamin A, which require a prescription.
Retinoids, like Retin-A and Differin, slough off dead skin cells that clog pores and cause acne. Plus, they boost collagen production — minimizing fine lines and wrinkles, which often accompany dryness. Still, even though they're highly effective in combating acne and aging, retinoids are known for irritating and drying out the skin.
Another option is to use over-the-counter products with retinol. Less powerful than retinoids (and thereby less effective), retinol products are gentler on the skin. They do take more time to work — up to 12 weeks instead of 8 weeks for retinoid formulas, according to Prevention.
When selecting a retinol product, make sure it contains 0.1 percent retinol and comes in an aluminum tube, reports the magazine. Like vitamin C products, retinol also loses effectiveness when exposed to light and air.
Learn everything you need to know about acne-fighting skincare in our Complete Acne Handbook.