What is it? Hailed as an anti-aging breakthrough by WebMD, peptides are proteins that boost collagen production. Several formulas in particular have garnered a great deal of interest. Included on this list of hot peptides are copper peptides, Matrixyl or palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 and Argireline or acetyl hexapeptide-3.
On the market since 1997, copper peptides have stirred up quite a commotion for their ability to stimulate collagen and elastin synthesis. But their discovery actually dates back to the 1970's when Dr. Loren Pickart patented various formulations that promoted wound and skin lesion healing. Though you should discuss it with your dermatologist first, copper peptides are especially effective after you've undergone procedures like chemical peels and laser resurfacing. Because of their anti-inflammatory abilities, copper peptides can additionally help with skin irritation. It's possible they might "help minimize the damage from daily wear and tear of the skin," as well, says Smart SkinCare's Dr. Todorov.
Matrixyl has been shown to promote the production of elastin, collagen and hyaluronic acid. In addition, one study suggests the Matrixyl is as effective as retinoids without the side effects; retinoids, though very effective, are known to irritate the skin.
Many products vie for the title of "better than Botox" or "Botox alternative," but while the majority of these are simply advertising ploys, Argireline is promising: Though it doesn’t go deep enough to reach the muscle, research suggests Argireline produces a "mild Botox-like effect inhibiting the release of neurotransmitters that keep facial muscles from forming wrinkles," according to Sumayah Jamal, MD, assistant professor of dermatology and microbiology at NYU Medical Center, in a WebMD article.
You’ll find it in: Most commonly, peptides appear in anti-aging products, including day and night-time creams, eye creams and serums. You'll also find peptides in cleansers, exfoliating products and peels.
Our product picks: Combining such effective ingredients as peptides, antioxidants, vitamin C and hyaluronic acid, HydroPeptide Intensive Concentrate Anti-aging Corrective Crème stimulates collagen and elastin, defends against free radical damage and minimizes the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Also try Philosophy Microdelivery Peel, a unique at-home treatment that uses peptide resurfacing crystals and delivers vitamin C to the skin while it exfoliates. This product produces a revitalized, healthy complexion.
What to expect: If used following a procedure or topical treatment, copper peptides can minimize any skin irritation and maximize your results.
Overall, because all peptides boost collagen, expect to see smooth, supple, younger-looking skin.
Who should avoid it: For the most part, peptide products are safe on all skin types, even sensitive skin. However, pregnant women should be cautious with any skincare product, so it's important to consult with your doctor. For instance, some peptide products use additional ingredients that might be harmful for moms-to-be.
Also of note: Because Argireline works on relaxing facial muscles, Smart SkinCare points out that it might contribute to sagging skin and recommends that those prone to facial sagging monitor their skin while using the product.
See also:
Amatokin for Anti-Aging
DMAE